Joining of flooring planks is done by lowering the tongue of one plank into the groove of another, where they are linked by a plastic latch. When linkage is done correctly, the plastic latch ‘clicks’ the planks together.
Woodline 3-layer single strip flooring
- Simplified installation technique- “one step installation”;
- Reduced amount of time required for installation;
- No need for highly qualified professional installers (installation of Woodline Parquetry flooring is perfect for a DIY project);
- Planks fit together perfectly; an audible ‘click’ confirms that planks were connected properly.
- Installation of Woodline Parquetry flooring can be done by a ‘floating’ method over an underlayment or by being glued down directly onto the subfloor or sound membrane.
Woodline 3-layer single strip flooring can be used in all types of residential spaces, and installed above, on, or below ground level; it can be installed over radiant heat floors (* except Exotic species).
It is very important that you read and understand the information contained in this installation guide before starting, as improper installation can void the warranties.
Keep in mind that wood is a natural product, so some color and grain variation is inevitable. Prominence of natural variation depends on the characteristics of the wood species. Woodline does not warrant against natural variations that occur from plank to plank or variations from sample to plank.
Use of filler, putty stick or stain in order to correct minor defects during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
It is standard trade practice to allow for up to 5% margin as an allowance for cutting waste and grading variance. 5% cutting allowance must be added to the actual square footage amount.
Tools and Equipment
For successful installation of Woodline Parquetry 3-layer single strip flooring, you will need the following tools and accessories:
- Mitre saw
- Vacuum cleaner and a broom
- Hardwood repair kit
- Woodline Parquetry service kit
- Chalk line
- Measuring tape
- Finishing nails
- Wood moisture meter
- Plastic film 2mil
- Cork underlayment 2mm
- Spacers (buffers)
- 2mil polyethylene is not required when installing over vinyl, wood, OSB or plywood subfloor.
- 2mil polyethylene is required when installing over concrete subfloor (on or below grade).
- It is not recommended to install Woodline Parquetry flooring over carpet.
- It is not recommended to install Woodline Parquetry flooring over wood flooring glued to concrete subfloor.
- Leave ½” expansion space at all vertical surfaces.
- In order to avoid damage, hardwood flooring should be the last item installed during construction or renovation.
- Prior to installation, heating and air conditioning systems must be in operation, and room temperature must have been maintained at 18-22C (64-71F) for at least one week.
- Relative humidity on the job site should be 45-60% at all times.
- To avoid moisture-related damages, make sure that the subfloor is dry and that the basement is well ventilated. Moisture level of wood subfloor must not exceed 12% and differential between wood planks and subfloor must be less than 4%.
- Keep sealed boxes in room where flooring will be installed for at least 24 hours before installation. Do not open cartons until ready to install.
- Due to natural wood properties, flooring from Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry), Cumaru (Brazilian Teak), Santos Mahogany and American Walnut must not be installed over radiant heat systems.
- You can install engineered flooring over concrete subfloor if the compressive strength of concrete is at least 20N/mm2. If the strength of concrete is lower, there is a risk of damage to the subfloor in the areas of glue seams, should any tension appear in the floor boards. It is easy to test the strength of concrete using a simple nail. If no crumbling occurs when the surface of concrete is scratched with a nail, the subfloor is strong enough to have hardwood installed over it.
- Humidity level of the concrete subfloor should be between 12-14%. If humidity level is higher, installation needs to be postponed until the source of moisture is located and removed. Turn on heaters and ensure proper ventilation to speed up the process. If the source of increased humidity is indoors, use an air dryer or AC.
- Moisture level of subfloor must not exceed 14% and differential between wood planks and subfloor must be less than 4%. If humidity meter is not available, humidity level can measured using the following method: attach a 1x1m piece of plastic film to the surface of the concrete subfloor with tape. If no condensate has formed on the inner side of the film two days later, then the subfloor is dry enough for hardwood to be installed.
- Moisture content for concrete subfloors registered after a calcium chloride test should not be greater than 7 pounds per 1,000 square feet of area in 24 hours. If it exceeds these limits, do not install the flooring. Before beginning moisture testing, concrete must be cured for a minimum of 30 days.
- Concrete subfloor surface must be absolutely flat. Any deviations from the floor level must not exceed 2mm for every 2m of subfloor surface. Minor level fluctuations can be corrected using dispersion primer. If level fluctuations are significant, it is recommended to level the surface with a self-levelling floor compound. Before starting installation, clean the subfloor surface using a broom or a vacuum cleaner.
- Note: It is the sole and joint responsibility of owner and installer to conduct pre-installation subfloor moisture checks and ensure that all conditions and specifications listed in this installation guide have been met prior to starting installation.
Wood, Plywood, Osb Subfloor Guidelines And Preparation
- It is recommended to use plywood or OSB for a subfloor. It is NOT recommended to use particleboard. Staple down installation requires minimum 5/8” plywood or ¾” approved OSB subfloor.
- Moisture level in wooden subfloor must not exceed 12%. Differential between flooring boards and subfloor must be less than 4%. If moisture level in subfloor is higher, installation has to be postponed until the source of moisture is located and removed. Turn on heaters and ensure proper room ventilation. If the source of moisture is indoors, use an air-dryer or AC. If moisture level of the subfloor is less than 4%, use an air humidifier.
- To avoid squeaking in your floors, make sure that there is no movement in the subfloor. If needed, use flooring screws to fix movement. Surface of subfloor must be absolutely flat. If necessary, flatten subfloor using a sander. Before beginning installation, clean your subfloor using a vacuum cleaner and a broom.
Note: It is the sole and joint responsibility of owner and installer to conduct pre-installation subfloor moisture checks and ensure that all conditions and specifications listed in this installation guide have been met prior to starting installation.
- It is the responsibility of the owner/installer to ensure that the conditions of the subfloor and jobsite are structurally acceptable prior to the installation of hardwood flooring. Woodline Parquetry accepts no responsibility for deficiencies of hardwood flooring that result or are related to subfloor, sub-surface or environmental conditions on the jobsite.
- Subfloor must be clean, flat, dry and structurally sound.
- Subfloor must be clean and free of any dirt, curing compounds, sealers, drywall mud, wax, urethane, grease or any other material that may affect the integrity of flooring itself or adhesives used to install it.
- All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer’s recommendations.
- Subfloor must be thoroughly vacuumed and free from any debris, such as cleats, nail heads, dried glue or any other material.
- Leave the boards in their original packaging until ready for use.
- Inspect all flooring material for color, finish, milling and grade, removing unacceptable planks.
- NOTE: Woodline Parquetry does not accept responsibility over any costs incurred when planks with visible defects have been installed.
- To achieve a uniform appearance across the entire floor, work from several cartons at a time. Prior to installation, “dry-lay” the flooring, mixing planks from several cartons. Ensure that the color is consistent and remove any planks with visual defects.
- Open a few boxes of hardwood flooring and arrange boards in the way you plan to install them. Boards with minor flaws can be used for trimming. Select boards, the color and texture of which match transition moldings and carpet reducers, and put them aside.
- Planks in the last row must be at least 1-1/2” (38mm) wide in order to be attached properly. If the last row is to be less than 1-1/2”, reduce the width of the first row so that both the first and last rows meet this requirement.
- Using a chalk line, trace a guideline that is parallel to the starting wall. Leave a 1/2” expansion gap between the guideline and the starting wall. Leave a 1/3” expansion gap between the beginning and end of flooring rows and perpendicular walls. The expansion gaps will be covered by baseboards later.
- Cover concrete subfloor with 2mm polyethylene plastic sheeting. Seal seams with clear plastic tape. Allow polyethylene to run 2” up the wall, trim excess after installation is complete.
- Install underlayment: cover all of the subfloor as well as the base of the walls (approx. 2”) with membrane of choice (note: consult membrane manufacturer’s installation instructions for more information).
- Place spacers (buffers) along each wall in order to maintain necessary expansion gaps between flooring and the wall.
- Secure a straight edge (starter board) inside the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from shifting during installation. A piece of lumber or flooring can be used as straight edge and it to be replaced after installation is completed.
- When using floating method of installation, no part of the floor is to be attached to any surface. Expansion gaps of 1/2″ must be left around all room fixtures.
- Install the first board along the guideline, moving left to right, tongue site of the plank facing the wall. Fitting of planks is done by lowering the tongue of one plank into the locking groove of another. When installing the second row, angle the flooring plank and insert the tongue into the locking groove of the first row plank, pushing and lowering it at the same time. A characteristic audible clicking noise will confirm that the planks were linked correctly.
- Having installed the first three rows of hardwood strips, correct board alignment and regulate the width of expansion gaps if necessary.
- The last board in every row will need to be cut; use the remainder as the first board in the next row. Leave at least 2” for the last board of each row.
- Always alternate the lengths of boards so that transverse seams are positioned in a random manner, but no less than 15” apart. This will help avoid repetitive pattern effect.
- When installing the last row, cut the board lengthwise in a way that ensures an expansion gap of 1/2”.
- Remove the straight edge (starter row) and install last row using pry bar to pull plank into place if necessary.
- When installing the last row, apply glue to the groove and insert the last board.
Note: Never strike a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to fit the planks, as this can damage the flooring.
- Restrict heavy foot traffic and wait 24 hours before removing spacers (buffers) and installing baseboards and mouldings.
- Install baseboards along the perimeter of the room. If needed, install transition moldings, stair nosings and reducers.
- Nail baseboards to the wall, but not to the floor. Baseboards may be nailed through the membrane.
- Cut membrane and polyethylene that go beyond the mouldings.
- After installation is finished, thoroughly vacuum the floor and clean it with hardwood floor cleaner.
- Place felt pads under all furniture legs prior to bringing furniture into the room.
- Make sure to set aside a few flooring planks for future repairs.